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Journal: |
Got up at 7am after a warm and sticky night, interrupted by some
inquisitive cows munching right up to the tent on several occasions.
I was already pretty sweaty and grimy when I went to bed in the
clothes I had worn all day, and was thankful I had bought a sleeping
bag inner for this trip that can be washed quite easily.
Otherwise, my sleeping bag would become pretty gross pretty quick.
Anyway, I was walking by 8am on another already warm and sunny
day. I followed more Offa's Dyke earthworks for part of the
way and enjoyed the pleasant path which again climbed to
semi-moorland and then descended to valley floors, farms and tiny
villages on several occasions. The climbing and descending
made for slow progress, especially in warm conditions, but I didn't
push it. I was entertained throughout the day by low flying
military aircraft, the first being a jet fighter that passed so low
I could easily see the crew in the cockpit. Later I saw a
number of low-flying Hercules transports.
After a final descent through an attractive and unoccupied golf
course, I arrived in the busy little town of Knighton around
11:30am, ready for some breakfast and fluids. I found a
bakery, and followed that with a visit to a tiny supermarket where I
bought some supplies to see me through the rest of the day. I
had 21km still to go to my target of Craven Arms, but figured I
could do that comfortably during the afternoon. Knighton was a
significant point in the trip because it marked the point at which I
left the Offa's Dyke Path and headed north-east across the English
midlands towards the Peak District and the Pennine Way, my route
north to Scotland. I was sorry to leave Offa's Dyke Path
because it had been well-marked, generally easy underfoot and
spectacularly scenic. Thoroughly recommended.
I'm back now following the less-travelled paths suggested by my
guide-book. The way out of Knighton began with a long and
arduous climb in very warm conditions to the top of Stow Hill
(~400m). Near the top, on a very steep and gravelly path, I
met an un-helmeted mountain-biker weighing many kilograms, coming
down the path. I consoled myself with the thought that there
was no way he had ridden up. He was having some trouble
getting traction and holding his line on the descent. A big
fall seemed imminent, but I didn't hang around to watch.
I travelled much slower than I hoped during the afternoon, with
more ascents and descents, some rough fields to cross and
considerable heat. Yet I wasn't too bothered as the views made
up for it and I passed through some very old villages with
interesting old buildings. With about 7km to go, my route
began following a lane which followed the line of an old Roman road,
virtually straight for kilometre after kilometre. I spent some
time pondering those who had built it, and passed along it, 2000
years ago. What did the countryside look like then? I
was supposed to leave the road and walk the last 4km along some
footpaths but, when I got to the track junction, and saw waist-high
nettles, I decided to sticvk with my Roman road which was also
heading in the right direction.
I reached the small town of Craven Arms at around 6:30pm and,
after wandering around a little, found the only establishment that
seemed to offer any accommodation and was lucky to get a room.
I had to wait half an hour in the bar until they could get their
last free room ready. As usual, I washed out the days gear
while I showered, putting the plug in the bath and doing some
"grape-mashing" with my feet before rinsing each item out. You
would not believe the black scum mark left in the bath when I
emptied it. I had to do some vigorous washing down.
I had dinner in the bar watching the England vs Mexico "friendly"
on their large screen, but went back to my room at half-time.
Hard to get too enthusiastic about a game that really didn't mean
much to either team. Less hills tomorrow, but a longish day.
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