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Journal: |
I woke at 6:45am and while taping up my feet, realised I was
running out of bandaids with no significant towns to be passed in
the next few days. So, I revised my plans and after the
hotel's elegant but small English breakfast, walked back into
Barnstaple where I bought some more bandaids and tape, mailed my
boots ahead to Chepstow and, by chance, noticed an outdoors store
and bought a waterproof map case with a neck lanyard. This
will allow me to keep my maps handy while using my trekking poles.
The chores went smoothly and I checked out of the hotel at 9:30am
and left Barnstaple via the village of Pilton. I was now off the
Coast Path and following the route suggested by a guidebook. I
had 1:50000 maps and some sketch maps in the guidebook, but knew I
would have to stay focused as the route connected and endless set of
country lanes, roads, public bridleways, footpaths and rights of
way. Of course I enjoy map reading and navigation, so this was
right up my alley. Basically, the route left Barnstaple at sea
level and headed up into the moors on inland Devon, and Exmoor in
particular, which ar in the range of 400-500m elevation. There
was a fair bit of climbing as the trail passed initially through
woodland along pretty wildflower bordered paths, and then it climbed
into more open farmland.
I stopped for lunch at a pub in the village of Bratton Fleming
which sat atop a ridge, then continued on to the picturesque village
of Challacombe, my last chance to by food for a day. I had
called a remote farm offering B&B near the planned end of my day,
but they were booked, so it looked like I was camping. The
lady in the tiny store was friendly and helpful, but that didn't
stop her selling me a couple of dried out luke-warm mini-pasties.
I bought various foods and drink to see me through to tomorrow
afternoon and resumed walking with a much heavier pack.
The route now climbed onto the crests of the Exmoor hills with
views in all directions. I could see Wales across the Severn
Estuary. The moors are treeless pasturelands and quite boggy
in places. My new white running shoes now look months old.
The route took me past the head of the Exe River which flows to the
sea near Exeter where I used to stay on business in another life and
go for morning runs along the river. Also in another life I
can remember running on Exmoor with friends when touring the UK in a
combi-van back in 1974!
I enjoyed the late afternoon moorland walking despite tired feet.
Still a couple of sore spots, but the running shoes are better than
the boots. I needed to walk until late because of my late
start and eventually found a spot to camp in field already inhabited
by some ponies, but there's not much choice, at 8pm. One pony
has a foal that has been running round and round, hopefully not
through my tent during the night. It's supposed to rain during
the night and into tomorrow, so I'm anticipating a wet pack up in
the morning.
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