Dave Byrnes' Adventures

Round Ireland - 2016
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Day: 028
Date: Thursday, 21 April 2016
Start: Bridia Valley
Finish: Killarney 
Daily Kilometres: 34
Total Kilometres: 808
Weather: Cool, overcast and dry all day
Accommodation: The Gardens B&B
Nutrition: Breakfast:  Cereal, fruit, yoghurt, ham & cheese omelette, toast and jam
Lunch:  Muesli bars and chocolate
Dinner:  Fish and chips, and choc chip biscuits
Aches: Feet sore and right shoulder a little sore
Highlight: The early morning climb over the Bridia Pass in complete silence and isolation.
Lowlight: Discovering a seam starting to open in one of my boots.
Pictures: Here
GPS Track: Here
Journal: I enjoyed a gourmet breakfast chatting with Florian, the young (40yo) German fellow guest.  He's a skilled mountaineer, and member of a volunteer mountain rescue team in Bavaria.  Like me, he quite enjoys solo adventures, though he's a bit more daring.  He's off to trek and climb in Kyrgyzstan on his own in the summer!

Given the late breakfast, it was 9:45am before I set off for a long day's hike.  I knew it was about 34km, but not much about the trail.  After a short walk on the road, I reached its end and began the cross-country climb up over Bridia Pass at the end of the valley.  Once I left the sheep behind, I had it all to myself and the Pass was completely silent.  Not even any birds singing.  The views were again spectacular, both back down the Bridia Valley and forward to the Black Valley, not to mention the peaks of the Magillycuddy Reeks to my left and the mountains to my right.

Once down into Black Valley, I picked up a farm road which turned into a country road and eventually led me to Killarney National Park.  Along the way I met a number of hikers going the other way, including a couple with a tiny baby strapped to the husband's chest.  The B&B proprietor had told me that if I wanted an easier day, I could catch a boat from the National Park nearly all the way to Killarney.  I declined, but it was obvious that this was a popular trip and I met a number of people who must have come off the boat.  Some were continuing their trip by horse and buggy.

The National Park trails were better maintained, and the views across Upper Lake were beautiful, as were some of the old growth forest trails.  By this time it was mid-afternoon, and I was starting to feel a bit tired, especially my feet, even though I still had a long way to go.  I think that after quite a long road walk, the hard stony paths in the Park were also tough on the feet.  Anyway, nothing to be done but plug away and make sure I didn't miss any of the fantastic scenery.

After rounding Upper Lake the trail climbed steadily upwards through the forest, emerging at the high Galway's River valley, and then climbed even more up to Esknamucky Glen which had an alpine feel to it and many long boardwalks to protect the vegetation.  Again I had it to myself and savoured the isolation, though not the more gnarly bits of trail which were slow and hard on my feet.  After what seemed like a very long section along the Old Kenmare Road, the trail finally began to descend steeply beside the Torc Waterfall, and the number of fellow walkers and sightseers increased rapidly.  The Waterfall was impressive in a beautiful forest glade and it was no wonder it was a favourite tour bus stop.

From there I had a long flat walk through the park-like Muckross estate, passing Muckross House along the way, before following a main road past endless hotels and B&Bs to central Killarney where I reached my B&B at 6:30pm.  On taking my boots off, I noticed a seam starting to open up between the waterproof bottom and the upper.  It's not big yet, but I suspect it will become a problem.  If I see a bootmaker, I might see if they have some appropriate glue.

After a shower I walked into the shopping area, shared with many tourists, and found a supermarket for some supplies and picked up a very poor standard fish and chips on the way back to my B&B.  I only have a short day tomorrow, but need to spend some time in the morning before I leave topping up my mobile phone credit and buying some new trekking socks from the outdoor store.  I have discovered holes in the heels of both pairs of my current socks!

ADVENTURE LIST

 

Round Ireland
(2016)

Hume & Hovell Walking Track
(2013)

Via Alpina
(2012)

Australian Alps Walking Track
(2011)

Land's End to John O'Groats
(2010)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2009)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2008)

Round Oz Bike Record Attempt
(2007)

Australia Tip to Top MTB
(2006)

Adelaide to Darwin MTB
(2005)

Sydney to Melbourne MTB
(2004)

Three Peaks Race
(2004)

Appalachian Trail
(1986)

Alpine Track
(1983)

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You can email Dave directly at dave@davebyrnes.com.au or subscribe to his Adventure Blogs here.

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